Deals & rates
Manufacturer finance is finance provided by the carmaker's in-house lender, sold through its franchised dealers. It's typically PCP or HP on a new or approved-used car from that brand.
Worked example
Take a £20,000 car offered at manufacturer 0% APR over 36 months with a £4,000 deposit: you repay £16,000 in 36 payments of about £444, totalling £20,000 with no interest. Now ask for the cash price: the dealer offers a £2,500 discount, so you pay £17,500. Finance that with a 7.9% bank loan over 36 months and the total comes to roughly £19,630, about £370 less than the 0% deal, and you own the car outright with no mileage limits.
Manufacturer car finance is finance offered through a carmaker's own lending arm, such as Volkswagen Financial Services, Ford Credit or Stellantis Financial Services, usually as PCP or HP on a new car. It's where most 0% and low-deposit offers come from. Our view: it's a good deal only when the subsidised APR saves more than the cash discount you give up to get it.
The subsidised low APRs can be genuinely good. The catch is that the headline often relies on you giving up a cash discount or accepting a higher car price, so compare the total amount payable with the APR & true-cost calculator to judge who's really offering the cheapest route. The rest of this page covers the catch, a bank-loan comparison and a worked example.
What is manufacturer car finance?
Manufacturer finance is finance provided by the carmaker's in-house lender, sold through its franchised dealers. It's typically PCP or HP on a new or approved-used car from that brand.
Because the carmaker controls both the car price and the finance, it can subsidise the APR, which is why 0% and low-APR deals are nearly always manufacturer offers. The manufacturer effectively pays the interest the lender would otherwise charge you, as a cost of selling the car. That's the engine behind every '0% available' poster on a forecourt.
See how the APR translates into cost on the APR & true-cost calculator. The structure is identical to any PCP or HP: a deposit, a term of monthly payments and, on PCP, the optional final payment (the balloon, set at the GMFV). Only the APR is set by the brand's finance arm rather than a high-street lender, and the brand's goal is to sell you one of its cars, not to compete on the open market for your borrowing.
Is manufacturer finance a good deal?
Manufacturer finance is a good deal when the subsidised rate saves more than any discount you'd lose by using it. Our view: it wins when you'd pay the same price either way, and a discounted cash buy or a bank loan beats it when the cash discount is large.
A true 0% manufacturer deal can be excellent if you'd pay the same price anyway, because you borrow for free and keep your savings. But carmakers often reserve their cash discounts for buyers who don't use the finance, so the 'deal' can quietly cost you that discount. The only way to know is to ask for both prices and compare the total amount payable.
Manufacturer finance also tends to carry the largest deposit contributions, which are lump sums the brand adds to your deposit to make the monthly payment look low. These are real money, but they often come with a minimum term or a specific PCP structure, and they can be smaller than the cash discount you'd forgo by taking them. Read the conditions, not just the headline.
The catch with manufacturer deals
The catch is that manufacturer deals are built to sell that brand's cars, so the savings come with strings. Read the conditions before you judge the headline APR.
None of this makes manufacturer finance bad. It makes the true cost the only fair way to judge it. On balance, a 0% rate tied to a car you want, at a price you'd pay anyway, is a genuine win. A 0% rate that costs you a £3,000 discount is a loss, because the discount was worth more than the interest you saved.
- Lost discount: the best cash discounts are often off the table when you take the finance offer, because the brand uses one lever or the other, not both.
- Tied to the brand: the deal only applies to that manufacturer's models, so you can't shop the car around or use the finance on a rival's equivalent.
- Deposit contribution rules: a tempting 'deposit contribution' can come with a minimum term, a minimum deposit of your own, or a higher list price that partly offsets it.
- Stock targeting: the best offers sit on specific trims, engines or registration plates the brand wants to shift, not necessarily the spec you wanted.
Manufacturer finance vs a bank loan
Manufacturer finance can beat a bank loan on rate but lose on flexibility; a loan lets you buy the car outright and chase a discount. Compare on the total amount payable.
If the manufacturer APR is 0% and the discount is small, the finance often wins, because you borrow for free and the forgone discount is modest. If the discount is large, a bank loan plus the discount can beat it, because you keep the saving and own the car from day one with no mileage limits. See the full comparison in dealer finance vs a bank loan.
| Manufacturer finance | Bank loan | |
|---|---|---|
| Rate | Can be 0% (subsidised) | Set by your credit |
| Buy with a cash discount? | Often no | Yes |
| Own the car? | On HP at the end, or on PCP if you pay the balloon | Yes, from day one |
| Mileage / condition limits? | Yes on PCP | None |
| Tied to one brand? | Yes | No |
Worked example: manufacturer 0% vs a discounted loan
A £20,000 car at manufacturer 0% costs £20,000 flat; the same car with a £2,500 cash discount on a 7.9% bank loan costs about £19,630 total.
Here the discount-plus-loan beats the 0% offer by about £370, because the discount is large enough to outweigh the loan's interest. Reverse the numbers (make the discount £500) and the 0% deal wins by roughly £1,900. The point holds across this page: only the total tells you who wins, and you only see the total when you ask for both prices.
Worked example
When manufacturer offers are at their sharpest
Manufacturer finance offers peak around the March and September plate changes and at quarter-ends, when brands are pushing to hit registration targets. That's when 0% rates and large deposit contributions appear.
The sales calendar drives the finance calendar. Dealers work to quarterly and plate-change targets, so the manufacturer's finance arm tends to release its sharpest subsidised rates in the run-up to the March and September plate changes to help shift metal. A 0% offer or a £2,000 deposit contribution that's unavailable in May can appear overnight in late August and withdraw by October. If you're flexible on when you buy, aligning with these windows is one of the strongest levers you have on a manufacturer deal.
Year-end (December) is the other peak, as dealers clear current-year stock. The test doesn't change with the season: a sharp rate tied to a car you want, at a price you'd pay anyway, is a win; a sharp rate that costs you a bigger discount is not. Whatever the month, ask for both the cash price and the finance price and compare the totals on the APR & true-cost calculator.
Who manufacturer finance suits
Manufacturer finance suits a buyer who wants a new car from a specific brand, can meet the deposit and term conditions, and values convenience over shopping the market.
Hold the monthly-versus-total rule firmly here. A manufacturer PCP advertised at '£249 a month' can total far more than a bank loan at a higher monthly once the deposit, the balloon and any forgone discount are added up. The monthly payment is the marketing and the total amount payable is the maths, and only the total tells you whether the brand's offer is the cheaper route.
- It suits you if: you want a new or approved-used car from the brand offering the deal, you qualify for the headline rate, and the forgone discount is smaller than the interest you'd pay elsewhere.
- It suits you less if: a cash discount on the same car is large, you'd rather own from day one with no mileage limits, or you want to compare across brands.
- It rarely suits you if: you're buying used outside an approved scheme, or you're set on a model the manufacturer isn't currently subsidising.
Check the true cost of any offer
Run every manufacturer offer against a discounted cash buy and a bank loan on the total you'd pay. The lowest total wins, whoever's lending.
Work out the interest on the offer with the APR & true-cost calculator, then compare it with other routes on the main car finance calculator. If it's a 0% offer, test it against a discount on 0% car finance deals. The brand's finance arm is one option among several, so judge it on the total amount payable, not the brand name on the credit agreement.
In plain English
Frequently asked
What is manufacturer car finance?
Is manufacturer finance a good deal?
What's the catch with manufacturer finance?
Is manufacturer finance cheaper than a bank loan?
Can you get a cash discount with manufacturer finance?
What is a manufacturer deposit contribution?
Can you get manufacturer finance on used cars?
When is the best time to get manufacturer finance?
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